I went to Hawai'i in the spring of 2015 for 3 weeks and these are the things I tried and would recommend.
Honolulu
Steak Shack serves steaks and chicken on rice. With outside seating looking out to the gorgeous Waikiki bay, eating the juicy steak allows one to come to terms with the amount of money spent elsewhere at Waikiki.
House without a Key is located inside the most loved hotel of the area, and as I had walked through the impressive interior of the Halekulani the fact that Steak Shack is located in the neighbouring building is not lost on me. Whilst the later was a fine example of focus and simplicity, House without a Key is elitist. During its Sunset Kiawe Grill, I enjoyed the hula danced by the ex-miss Hawai'i and sipped on a deliciously intense version of a mai tai. During my time there, not one element exceeded my expectations for such a place in Honolulu, but the fact they met them all at the same time was shockingly pleasant.
The Diamond Head hike was a vigourous and peaceful 2 hour experience away from the claustraphobic crazy of the nearby city. The formation is a crater and the trail is to the highest point of the rim created from the impact. A local bus will take you close to a tunnel that leads you into the crater and a longer hike commences from the military base within to the top of the crater. A wonderful vista is available from the top to Diamond Head beach and to the little red lighthouse perched on the cliffs below.
Hawai'i Island
Makalawena beach is a secluded and personal beach, it's intimate. The hazardously bumpy offtrack road and the lengthy hike to reach the beach itself filters out all but the most driven individuals. But this beach is worth it. If this was the only beach I ever experience in a lifetime, I would not feel short changed. During my time at this beach, I felt as one with the earth when a turtle swam by, raising its front flipper as if to high five.
Holualoa Inn is located in the middle of the Kona belt. An area of land on Hawai'i Island that is famous for its Arabica coffee. Built on a plantation and served by incredible hosts the property looks out to an unbostructed view of the west side of the island and to the ocean beyond. On most days I could not tell the difference between blue of the sky and azure of the ocean. In the evenings the frogs sang out like birds, and there was always fresh fruit and snacks in the kitchen. I imagine living here would fundamentally change the biology of one's brain, beauty has such a physical effect.
Umeke's was a revelation. Tuna fish flesh is transformed into something like toro at the price of a salad. It is a local favourite and almost obscene in its casualness. I rate this poke over Ono Seafood and Kyung's Seafood in Honolulu and I recommend avoiding the "traditional" Hawaiian poke altogether which is outragously salty.
I have fond memories of driving across Saddle Road. It runs along the valley created by Mona Kea and Mona Loa and takes roughly 2 hours from west to east. The rolling hills dares you to drive enthusiatically and the landscape ranges from desert yellow, moon black lava, marsh fog and tropical thunder. This may not be the sole reason for driving along this road, but you'll find reason enough when you're there.
Kauai Island
The Kalalau trail starting at Ke'e beach is as gorgeous as it is difficult. The trail was a steep, rocky, muddy ribbon around the Na Pali coast line. North facing, the coast is sun drenched, looking out to infinity through rainforest trees. This is a whole day hike that I wish I could have completed, but I am grateful to have tried anyway. On the way there Hanalei Beach was a worthwhile visit to speculate what life would be like for the epically wealthy (see also Princeville), the cost of nestling at the foot a lush mountain with expansive soft white sand in front. Many parts of The Descendants were also filmed here and I think it is George Clooney's finest performance.
Kalalau Lookout is a lengthy drive from the western roads and as you wound clockwise back up towards the Na Pali Coast you encounter Waimea Canyons. Everyone will tell you it's like the Grand Canyon. Once you get past the canyons the vista over and into Kalalau Valley is tremendous and I think at this point I realised I don't have suitable adjectives to describe that type of blue.
There were many things I've left out like ascending Mona Kea, swimming with manta rays, Savage Shrimp and constantly surrounded by free ranging chickens. Whilst I found those experiences just as meaningful, this post needs to ship.
The state of Hawai'i is an amazing set of distinct climates, cultural background chained together to form a fascinating archipelago. I cherish every minute of my time there with Fiona.
